「The Art of Collecting」Imperial Dragon Robes, Treasures of the Qing Palace, Make Their Debut at the Spring Auction of China Guardian

When it comes to the imperial dragon robes, most people’s first thought is “bright yellow”. In fact, the dragon robes have strict color and ritual system divisions. Bright yellow is exclusively used for court meetings, sacrifices and other ceremonial occasions, while blue and stone blue dragon robes are mostly used for auspicious ceremonies and festival rituals. Due to the rarity of the craftsmanship and the delicacy of the materials, the number of these blue and stone blue dragon robes that have survived is far less than that of the bright yellow ones, making them even more precious. The two Qing Dynasty dragon robes in this springauction of China Guardian are one light and elegant and the other richly embroidered, representing the top level of Qing Dynasty court weaving and embroidery.

The first piece is a Qing Dynasty openwork gauze embroidered dragon robe with twelve imperial symbols. It is a exclusive weaving technique of the imperial court, also known as needling embroidery. Craftsmen embroidered on a light and transparent gauze base according to the regularity of the grid, with meticulous needlework and extremely high production requirements. Only the three major weaving workshops in the Jiangnan region could produce such exquisite works. The gauze material is breathable and comfortable, making it the exclusive material for the summer ceremonial robes of Qing emperors. Besides the rarity of the technique, the entire robe also adheres to complete and meticulous ritual regulations. Nine five-clawed golden dragons are orderly arranged on the robe, in line with the imperial ritual of the “Nine Five” supremacy. The full set of twelve imperial symbols is completely preserved on both sides of the dragon bodies and the hem, each symbol representing the emperor’s virtue in governing the country and his expectations for governance. Complete sets of twelve-symbol dragon robes from the Qing Dynasty are extremely rare. This dragon robe follows the typical form of Qing Dynasty auspicious robes, with a round collar, right lapel, horse-hoof sleeves, and four slits, retaining the characteristics of Manchu clothing. After over a hundred years, the patterns on this robe remain clear and the condition is intact, making it a precious physical object for studying the Qing Dynasty’s imperial ceremonial dress system.

If the openwork gauze embroidered dragon robe is elegant and understated, then this Jiaqing period dragon robe with peacock feather inlay, turquoise ground and pearl stitching showcases the Qing Dynasty’s royal heavy workmanship to the fullest. The entire robe is made of stone blue satin as the base, and the whole body is decorated with the inlaid green jade technique, with peacock feathers split into threads and woven all over the garment. The unique structural color of peacock feathers can change with the angle of light, presenting a flowing green luster. The natural texture is irreplaceable. This technique is time-consuming and material-consuming, with strict regulations. Only the emperor, empress, and empress dowager were allowed to use it. The dragon patterns are sewn with the rice bead embroidery technique, with nine five-clawed golden dragons formed by stringing pearls together, and the outlines are outlined with gold thread, exuding a luxurious and solemn atmosphere, fully demonstrating the imperial dignity. The layout of the dragon patterns strictly adheres to the court regulations, and the craftsmanship and patterns are highly consistent with the same type of artifacts in the collection of the Palace Museum. The combination of peacock feathers and rice bead embroidery was a special technique provided for the Qing Dynasty court. Such a well-preserved and complexly crafted dragon robe is rarely seen in the current collection market for several years.

These two imperial dragon robes are not only royal garments but also the epitome of the weaving and embroidery skills of the three major weaving workshops in Jiangnan during the Qing Dynasty. They are the most representative and significant items in this spring’s auction by China Guardian and are worthy of careful appreciation and collection by seasoned collectors.

Collecting holds a world of secrets. That’s all for today. We’ll continue next time.